Stylists know a thorough client consultation is necessary to deliver great results. But a simple “consultation” is limiting, and omits critical details.
The most thorough pre-service conversation with a client is actually a “suitability analysis” — which gives you vital details beyond face shape and hair texture.
Every guest in my chair gets a suitability analysis that helps me choose the right tools and products and execute a strategy for their haircut and color. It lets me know the styling techniques I should teach them so they can recreate the look at home.
Lifestyle, fashion, and personality traits are huge factors in how people wear and maintain their hair. A suitability analysis brings those factors and others into consideration for more precise decision-making.
This is the first step in meeting and exceeding every guest’s wishes for their hair — not just that day, but every day.
I’m teaching how to do a proper Suitability Analysis at the upcoming Premier Orlando. If you can’t make it, here’s the summary:
Bone Structure of the Skull
It's the foundation of everything! Is the occipital bone large, small, curved, or flat? How is the top of the head shaped? Is one side smaller than the other? Are there any dents or bumps?
The shape of the skull influences length, layers, and graduation, as well as how to utilize overdirection, tension, and section sizes.
Scalp Health
Are there sores, abrasions, inflammation, dryness, or flakes? Any moles or bumps that look concerning? Guests can’t see their scalp, so if you see something, say something. More than once, I’ve found something on a guest that turned out to be skin cancer.
Growth Patterns/ Cowlicks
Are there any oppositional growth patterns growing in a different direction than the rest of the hair? Strong cowlicks may require a change in technique or tool in that area.
Hair Density
How many strands of hair, thick or thin, do you estimate? Is there any scalp exposure (common with thinner hair), or is the scalp hardly seen due to thickness?
Hair Texture
Fine: Tends to be naturally shiny but has a smaller diameter and tends to lay flatter.
Coarse: Has a larger diameter and tends to have more natural volume, but can lack moisture and softness.
Medium: Has the best of both — some volume but not unruly, with natural shine.
Natural Movement Patterns
Is the hair straight, wavy, curly, or coily?
Face Shape
Round: Best with styles that add height or lengthen the face.
Square: Best with styles that soften angles and balance the face, with layers or textured cuts.
Oval: This versatile face shape suits many styles; ask the guest which features they’d like emphasized or softened and go from there.
Heart Shaped: Best with styles that add volume at the jawline, to balance wider foreheads.
Diamond: Best with styles that add width at the forehead or chin, to balance the face shape.
Hair Condition
This often gets overlooked. Analyze overall hair health, elasticity, and existing damage. All this affects how certain styles look when finished, and how well they can hold a style over time.
Less healthy hair does best with cut, color, and styling options that promote health and minimize stress on the strands.
Personality and Lifestyle
Understanding the client's personal style, preferences, and comfort level is crucial. Some may not ever want a change, while others want to try out every trend. Some might not have flexibility to experiment, while others can and do. It’s important to know this before creating a look.
It’s also helpful to ask about hobbies and interests that affect their hair. Is the guest frequently washing their hair after work, exercise, or activities like swimming or diving? Do they need to wear it up a lot?
You can help them make more informed choices about home care and products as you plan a style that takes all this into account.
Maintenance Requirements
Understand how much time and effort the client is willing or able to put in every day for styling and maintenance. Some clients will never pick up a blow dryer, while others happily devote an hour (or more!) and multiple tools every day to get their desired look.
Instead of asking them to change their habits, recommend styles that align with them.
All this may require you to delve deeper than you’re used to during a client consultation! But the information gained is worth it. With a suitability analysis, you’re better able to make decisions that meet and exceed the client’s wants and needs for their hair.
Those are the guests who recognize your worth, happily return over and over, and recommend you to everyone — in short, your dream client!
Teresa Romero is the Creative Director for Sam Villa and Artistic/Education Director for Jose Luis Salon. Find out where she will be teaching and book an in-salon class here.
