With a 200-percent increase in the number of adults seeking acne treatment and close to 85 percent of adults experiencing some form of acne in their lifetime, it comes as no surprise that estheticians have their hands full. Since culprits run the gamut from hormonal fluctuations to stress to environmental factors, finding a solution can be as frustrating for the skin pro as it is for the client. Here’s what our experts have to say about effectively treating clients with adult acne.
Q What are the most effective in-spa treatment options to address adult acne?
A While acne is a medical condition that has to be diagnosed by a medical professional, as estheticians we can perform professional facials that help improve the skin’s appearance. The Repêchage Hydra Medic Facial with Desincrustation Mask in-spa treatment, designed for oily problem skin, deep cleanses and helps control the appearance of oil while helping maintain moisture. This refining treatment leaves skin with a renewed appearance of freshness. To maintain optimum skin condition, this protocol should be performed monthly.
—Lydia Sarfati, Master Esthetician and Repêchage CEO and Founder
Q Are chemical peels too aggressive for the adult acne patient?
A I choose gentle peels like the PCA Skin 4% Pure Retinol Peel. It helps increase cell turnover, brighten the complexion while fighting breakouts and also makes the epidermis more compact and organized. This leads to a clearer complexion that also will have fewer fine lines. Ultimately, the skin will look more rested and have a glow.
—Dr. David J. Goldberg, Director, Skin Laser & Surgery Specialists of NY and NJ, and PCA Skin Ambassador
Q What is new in adult acne treatment?
A Traditional benzoyl peroxide (BPO) products can be very drying and irritating. There are good micronized, liquid BPO options that are more effective for adult acne. Additionally, products that contain BPO in combination with gluconolactone for soothing breakout control are an even better choice. My favorite is PCA Skin BPO 5% Cleanser.
—Goldberg
Q Any advice for estheticians treating adult acne patients?
A Regardless of the form of acne, we know that sebum production or oil is the catalyst for the series of events that result in acne and blemishes. Excess sebum is often associated with enlarged pores, a tendency toward follicle congestion and an oily T-zone. With any form of acne, you have to deal with the three factors: sebum, bacteria and enclosure. Using skincare products that deep clean and help absorb excess oil while moisturizing the skin can be beneficial towards busting blemishes.
—Sarfati