BY JIKAIAH STEVENS
There are many types of mixies/mullet-shags/shagullets out there right now. Make sure your client references ones they are interested in with photos and images. If they didn’t bring any, pull up a few versions yourself and break down what they are drawn to the most. For instance, the curtain bangs and shag-like touches, the more true mullet, the rock 'n' roll or soft and romantic kind.
For more education and techniques from Jikaiah Stevens, check out her classes at the International Beauty Show New York!
Tools:
- Dry cutting shears (preferred) or any shears
- Clips
- Spray bottle
- Straight-blade razor with new blade
- 2 towels
- Comb (my favorite is the metal comb by Cult & King)
Step-by-Step
- Evaluate the client's hair density, texture, wave pattern and length, and any previous layering to guide where to start. Touch their hair fully—gauge how much curl and texture they will get and if that will lead to shrinkage in length.
- Section the hair in front of the ear forward with a slight angle on both sides.
- Section the top bang area in a deep triangle so the bang length and weight will start and pull from the flat middle of the head and the sides come closer to framing the face.
- Depending on the length in the back, I would either wet razor the length to desired level, or if it's like my client here who wanted to keep her length, I started with dry cutting texture and layering in. It could also be done with the wet straight blade razor and carving out weight. Taking long vertical sections moving left to right. If dry-cutting, take vertical sections and cut out weight without removing length on every section. Always point-cut and create straight or sharp lines. We want to create soft, blendable, movable texture.
- Moving to the front, start with the bang triangle section. Section it into two or three horizontal sections depending on the density. Next, make sure it’s evenly saturated but not dripping. Choose half a section from the right or left side of the bangs on the forehead. Pick up between your fingers and flip it so you are holding it vertically. Slide your blade quickly down the section, using light pressure and little strokes as you move down. When you let it down, it should create a soft, angled graduated effect (from the middle forward) around the sides. Follow the same steps with the leftover sections.
- Carve out the sides of the mixie. Your client's preference for how extreme or soft they want their mixie will decide how much length and disconnection there is. Work with slightly angled vertical sections, pulling the hair toward you at a slight angle. Take your razor again with light pressure and little strokes. Instead of carving the whole section at once, you can stop midway, creating different lengths and points of interest. All must slightly connect back to the length behind the ear or, if shorter, above the ear. Take approximately three sections on each side and repeat this, checking along the way that it has a flow and pleasant connection to the back.
- You can carve up weight and length on top of the head if the client wants more volume and pixie flare. Overdirect those sections toward the front and then left and right to carve weight out. I love to finish my mixies with Hairstory Undressed texturizing spray and scrunch in some Hairstory Hair Balm. The client can air dry or diffuse into the perfect mixie shape. It’s a great wash-and-go style that has so much room for customization.
For more education from Jikaiah Stevens, head to the IBS New York Show
Javits Center, New York, NY
March 13-15, 2022
Check out Stevens' classes on March 13 and 14:
Cut the Perfect Shag to Curtain Bangs, Many Ways to Cut Curls, Create the Mini Mullet/Pixie Shag