Cut

How To: Cut Invisible Layers on a Bob

The roster of A-listers lobbing off their locks to above-the-shoulder bobs grows every day ... meaning stylists need techniques to evolve and transition these bobs. Kyleen GarciaRedken Artist,  Sam Villa Ambassador, and Union Street Salon owner — shares how she adds invisible layers to blunt styles, giving the bob more movement while opening up the fringe area.

Her technique breaks down a blunt bob to a shaggy bob using just one shear.

“I’m passionate about incorporating time-saving methods and techniques into everything I do … so using a blending shear to do an entire cut? Why not?” Garcia says.  “Cutting with texturizing shears gives the cut that already grown-out look that people love.

“You won’t see this texture," she says, "but it will change the shape of a style and give it much more movement.” (Garcia's shear of choice: the Sam Villa Signature Series Reversible Blending Shear.) 

How to: cut invisible layers on a bob

 

Key Points

  • Bottom Layer: Elevate section straight up, start 2” from ends, and open and close shears while moving down the hair strand.
  • Top Layer: Comb straight up, overdirect to the opposite side, and bring fingers all the way to the ends. Shears go on opposite side of fingers and backcomb away from the body multiple times until all hair falls out of fingers to create lightweight volume.
  • Fringe: Take off front corners to open up the face by overdirecting each side to the other side with diagonal finger positioning to create the face frame. Blend the shortest piece to the rest with horizontal shear strokes, then point-cut to add softness.

“When working on the top section, I like to use a clip to hold the bottom section down. This allows you to drop the top section over the bottom to read how it falls without mixing up the two sections,” Garcia says.

Watch the technique here: 

Learn more about the Sam Villa Team here, and book an in-salon class here.