The "concave layer" cutting technique removes weight, adds movement, and is a go-to for cutting educator and Sam Villa ArTeam member Roger Molina, who taught it at this year's International Beauty Show in Las Vegas.
“I thought it would be fun to do it on the same head to give insight into the different nuances of each method," says Molina, known for his award-winning stop-motion video tutorials. "The second technique produces a slightly less layered effect.”
Here is an overview with step-by-step details below:
Version 1 (Left Side)
Top
- Begin with a center section running from front hairline to apex.
- Elevate diagonally and cut a blunt line on a diagonal finger angle.
- Continue to hairline with 1” sections to a stationary guide.
Back
- Beginning at center, elevate to original stationary guide on left. Vertical section at first. Overdirect diagonally with diagonal finger angle.
- From center, begin pivoting and work to back of ear stationary guide and overdirection to center high point.
Version 2 (Right Side)
Top
- Begin with the fringe, take a diagonal section and elevate diagonally, finger angel is diagonal. Cut short to long.
- Over direct to previous section, continue working diagonal sections until the apex.
Back
- Beginning from apex to top of ear section, elevate previous cut section to high point (apex) and follow that angle for a guide.
- Pivot to center back, overdirection to high point. Follow the same cut line.
“It’s so important to find multiple ways of doing the same thing so you can explore, get excited and master a concept and technique,” Molina says.
Below is a more detailed tutorial with sectioning, finger angles, and tools:
Molina is using a 5.5" Sam Villa Classic Series Shear and Lydia mannequin head.